“Just because we are all speaking the same language, doesn’t meant we necessarily understand them.”
I have so many impressions during the first week, you’ll just have to excuse the choppiness of the upcoming post. The arrival at Heathrow went pretty smoothly. From the airplane window, I could see exactly what Kate Fox described as a typical English town, a million red houses clustered together and curvy streets intersecting at oblique angles. The humongous golf courses, soccer stadiums, and cricket fields also dominated the landscape. Once we landed, the plane wouldn’t let passengers out for half an hour because of a bomb-scare at the airport earlier that day. Some things are pretty universal. Once I got mu luggage, I had to go through the passport control: there was one line for citizens of the EU, U.K. and Sweden, and the other line for for everyone else. It felt odd to be in other line, especially since it took much longer. After half an hour of waiting and 3 answered question, I got through the passport controls, quickly picked up my luggage and went outside. The bus to Oxford was really close by.
I bought a “return” trip ticket, sat back and smiled. I was in England, driving on the wrong side of the road. I was full aware of this idiosyncrasy but it nonetheless made me smile. It’s like someone reproduced a picture from their memory and got one detail wrong. The bus ride was only ~90 minutes. I was mostly watching the traffic: lots of station wagons, hatchbacks, all kinds of little cars on the road, and the landscape: country homes, green pastures for sheep.
The Stanford House is only 1 block away from the bus stop on High Street. It felt good to finally arrive, I hadn’t slept the previous night at all, it turned out to be a long, and tiring 40-hour day. But first I had to make it to my room. Matt and I are in what we refer to as the “tower”. It’s a nice, spacious double but to get here, you need to walk up a round, lighthouse-like staircase with no rails. Carrying the suitcase up was fun, to say the least. The rest of the houses is even more obscure. It used to be 6 separate building that were stiched together suing staircases. When you see it, it looks like one of Escher’s famous abstract paintings. And of course to layout makes no sense, to get to the basement where the library and the laundry are, you first need to walk up 2.5 storeys, and then go through a few fire doors and make your way down. These fire doors are always kept closed, and it’s not even clear whether there’s anything behind them or not. I still would have a tough time finding the music room, nor could I draw a layout of this place. I mostly get to rooms by remembering where I ended up the last time I tried to go somewhere and got lost.
The first several days were really chaotic. It reminded me of orientation week freshman year, except the people are much more mature and metting them is less awkward. Plus I knew a few kids coming in, that was helpful. I’m affiliated with Magdalen College, a stunning Gothic castle right across the street. In fact, wherever you go in Oxford, you’re bound to see stunning Gothic, Normal, or Victorian architecture. They filmed the Harry Potter scenes in the dining hall at one of the nearby colleges. It feels so much different from Stanford. 1891 vs. being established in 13th century. History and Traditions just permeate this place. There are also some contemporary building, the newer colleges and the science labs are not, thankfully, Gothic. Although as you can imagine there has been much controversy (still going on) regarding their construction. The English people may have a number of false stereotypes, but the obsession with tradition is completely true. It is completely normal to do things one way just because they have been done this way for centuries, as opposed to always looking for the most efficient manner of accomplishing the task. For example, we had to take an oath to get our library card. And until a few years ago, they could make you put your right hand on the Bible, whether or not you were religious.
I found out that I really like walking by myself. Don’t get me wrong, it is tons of fun to socialize and get to know other people while walking with a company, but I have been putting an effort into really absorbing everything Oxford has to offer. I just go for a stroll, bring my camera along and see where that takes me. We actually don’t have food for the first two weeks (the term here starts later than we arrived), and so this is a good excuse to go outside of the University and see the town as well. Although it’s very unusual to me how to University is intermixed with the Town. While it is very clear what category each building falls to, there’s no campus per se. It’s just various colleges built near the center of the city of Oxford. There is no bubble because there is no place you can point and say” that’s the campus”. Although of course there are bubbles of their own, I get the feeling that not too many people leave the colleges where they belong. The tutorials are done in the college of affiliation, and that’s where you go to the gym, library, pub as well.
Speaking of pubs, I think they’re pretty awesome. It feels good to acquire alcohol legally, plus it’s fun to try out local beers and such. You order them by a pint, which is actually quite a bit of beer from you’re used to drinking cans. So far I’ve been a big fan of Guinness and Newcastle. They also have delicious fruit and berry flavored beers, probably designed with women but who cares, I drink them anyway. I’ve been mostly going out with people from the house. One time at the pub, we saw a group of 5-6 English folks playing drinking games. We asked what there rules were and got a very warm welcome (they were pretty drunk) and an offer to stay. That was, by far, the best night here. One game we played was called “If I have the highest card”. Basically, the cards are given out, face down. Then you have to lick it and stick it to your forehead. So you never see what your own card is. Then you go around the circle and say “if I have the highest card, I will do ____”, filling in the blank. People said anything from “I’ll buy everyone a beer” to “I’ll finish everything on this table” to “I will kiss my roommate on the lips”. Then the people who got the ace actually have to do what they set out. We saw a quite a bit of stuff, ranging from that roommate kiss, so a flaming man-gina. I didn’t know what the last thing was either, if you want to find out ask me, but lets just say it involves fire. There was also a game of God Save the Queen, and a game of Yeeeha, but yeah, drinking games with Brits were fun. Somehow all the pubs close by midnight (often 11.30), so we had to go a Jamaican bar, a REALLY sketchy place (although here they say dodgy instead of sketchy, maybe sketch-ball translates to dodge-ball, i don’t know), filled with smoke, and other niceties.
The next day after that pub adventure, we departed to the Lake District in the North. After a pretty extended bus-ride, we stopped at this 16th century house made entirely of wood. The mahogany preserved really well, so it’s still standing although there isn’t a single parallel line left on the facade. The house is as crooked and twisted as it could be while still standing. We then stopped for a 2 hour walk around the lake, around the place where Wordsworth lived and wrote. Some people went to see his house, but I opted to join the walking group. It was a very scenic lake, but it was just a preview what what was to come the next day.
We left the Lake and after a quick 30-minute bus ride arrived at our hotel in a town called Cockermouth. Don’t worry, there have been enough jokes about that already. The day consisted of a 10-mile hike in the mountains, reaching one of England’s tallest peak of 1km. We were led by our 60+ year old British professor, Dr. Tyack, who’s on staff at the Stanford House. The guy is in spectacular shape, he was very much on par with the 20-year-olds for the entire 10 miles. It was physically challenging, the first couple of climbs were the hardest, and then it got a little easy. The way down was also surprisingly hard. The whole thing became known as the “Tyack” challenge. Before asking who wanted to join him on this hike, he described the experience as “strenuous” and recommended most of us engaged in something less daring while he was hiking through the mountains. Then he proceeded to tell us that it tends to be very cold at the top, and that he expects most of us to get lost on the way. Of course you can’t tell Stanford students they can’t do something, because then he was joined by a surprisingly large group. And still at every peak he would say ” well you could go back now, because the next peak is really challenging but I’m gong forward”. One time he basically started off while some people were still resting despite concerns of those with him. Awesome day. By the way the weather here has been fantastic (people here say it’s summery), 70 almost every day and it hasn’t rained yet!
While on the trip, the bus driver explained the rules of cricket to my roommate and me. We ended up catching half a game on television later on in the day. It started to make some sense although the terminology of wickets and unders is still a bit alienating. In short, it’s like baseball with two bases. I also watched a couple of soccer games when Man U was playing. Absorbing the culture of sports as well. On the way back from the Lake Distract to Oxford, we stopped at Manchester. We ended up seeing the Imperial War Museum, the Lowry gallery and also got a glimpse of the stadium.
The British television so far has been unimpressive to put it lightly. We have 6 channels, and they’re all crappy. From what I can tell, most people watch American shows that all air here. From Sex and the City to Friends to Lost, you can find just about anything. I’ll still to watchig Lost once a week, there’s nothing good on besides that anyway. I have been impressed by the news coverage of international events. I learned so much about the state of American politics from just picking up a newspaper. The Virginia Tech tragedy was page 1 of any newspaper. It’s so mind boggling that this happened, I just can’t wrap my mind around it.
So now I’m back in Oxford. I narrowed down what classes I’m taking: besides the tutorial in physics (which was finally arranged yesterday), I’ll be doing a class on British Ethnography, and Architecture of Oxford. 13 units. It’s such a different coursework from what I’m used to, and I’m only going to have a classes 2-3 days a week, for a few hours a day. I can’t stay I accomplish a whole lot in the free time though, it’s easy to get distracted. Another thing that’s different from what I’m used to is the gender make up: there are 45 students in the program, 13 guys. Although it seems like there are even fewer, like in my ethnography class (by no means a women-dominated field), it’s 8 girls and me, a complete reversal of your typical math/physics class. It’d odd, but I’m not complaining.
I went to a comedy show at the Oxford Playhouse last night, it was titled “Pride, Prejudice, and Niggas”. It’s not surprising, that the show caused very much controversy because of the title, among other things. It was a black American stand-up comedian from the South who has lived here for five years. Definitely an interesting background. Here’s one of the more memorable jokes:
Please don’t read this if you’re at all sensitive to anything:
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He was talking about how he loves film and he appreciates the “fuck you” type of film, no forced happy endings, just be realistic about consequences. So he once saw this short 15-minute Japanese film that just blew his mind. It takes place on a bus going through the countryside. The driver is a small, 20-something year-old girl .All of the sudden two guys stand up in the back of the bus and yell out that it’s a robbery. They collect everyone wallets and watches while everyone just sits quietly. Then the come up to the girl-driver looked at her from head to toe, grabbed her outside and proceeded to rape her. Everyone in the bus looked at the window to see what was happening but no did anything. One man tried to stand up but was held by his wife. Finally a young 16-year old kid in the front of the bus ran out and tried to tackle the two robbers. He couldn’t overpower both of them so they forced him on the ground and cut his angle with a knife. The scene ends with both the 16-year old and the girl driver lying on the ground. The girl is the first one to get up, she slowly, mechanically gets in her feet and gets on the bus, into the drivers seat Everyone is quiet. Then the guys managed to get up. He manages to stumble and crawl to the entrance while yelling out “I’m sorry, I couldn’t help you, I’m so sorry”. But the girl yells at him “Don’t get on”. She throws out his backpack, closes the bus doors and drives away. The 16-year old starts slowly making his way in the direction where the bus was going. First he sees one ambulance, then another, and five or six more ambulances are standing in his way. It turns out the girl drove the bus off the cliff, and the movie ends to the audience’s horror.
So the comedian tells us all of this and he’s like “But I never understood if the girl drove the bus off the cliff because she thought no one inside deserved to live or women are just shitty drivers”
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This turned out to be a pretty long update. I’ll post some pictures later on, and definetly write more next week. For the time being my cell phone number here is (07726) 232-562. I don’t understand why the area code is 5 digits, but in any case, the incoming calls for me are free. Just saying.